Transgression and expression are at the heart of the Gothic. Combine it with glamour and add elements of drag to go on an exploration of a cultural form which is becoming increasingly popular in the city: dark female ‘drag’ Queens.

These Queens are often known as ‘faux queens’ or ‘female queens’ – embracing the uncanny element of presenting a hyper-feminised, artful appearance as part of their performance or look. This often involves exaggerated face art, eye makeup and hair.

A woman who can talk more on this, as well as experimenting with design across Gothic and unusual themes is Rose Niland.  She is an artist and musician from Manchester, who currently records and performs as Rose & The Diamond Hand, as well as pursuing passions in psychedelic art, instrumentation and make up.

In this piece, Rose discusses her exploration of Gothic as well as female Queen makeup – and how the two combine. Challenging the notion that ‘drag’ is a male form, Rose often uses influences of the bold design and angular shapes to create dark and intense patterns. This has included Gold Goth Queen make up for a Brothers Grimm video series, as well as stage face art for a number of musicians, including ILL at their Manchester Deaf Institute Album launch.  

In a recent blog post, Rose reflected on her connection to Queer culture and drag:

“My Mum is a big fan of queer culture, and although I didn’t fully understand the genius of John Waters films when I was a child I enjoyed them…especially Hair Spray and Polyester. 

“I’d always toyed with the idea of doing drag makeup but it wasn’t until a friends (Sally Mason) open mic night at the Crown and Kettle that gave me the final push. Playing that night were Beau and Violet (Violet Blonde and Beau Laveau Blonde) they are a music duo and also drag queens. Beau is a female drag queen/Bio queen. I didn’t realise until that moment that women COULD be drag queens! Of course they can! Talk about living in a box! That was the push I needed to come out myself as a Queer artist. 

“For me, Queer is not identifying with any of the social constructs that we’re boxed in to. I am me, I am free, I’m without label. Or maybe an alien.”

HAUNT followed with an interview to find out more:

What was the inspiration behind getting involved in drag?

“One of my fondest childhood memories was having Christmas dinner with a family friend also a drag queen called Dolly Perkins, we had a competition over who could stuff the most marshmallows into their mouths… she won!

“I had always been drawn towards the glitz and glamour of the drag and entertainment worlds but after meeting Dolly I became a bit obsessed, I even named my favourite doll after her. My drag Queen doll came everywhere with me.”

How did this interest in drag transfer to make up and things Gothic?

“Combined with a love of art and all things creative…. when I discovered makeup I’d practice the standard techniques. Then when that was done I thought: ‘why not add a bit more and more and more and see what happens?’ Many atrocities to begin with – ha!

“Plus, I’ve always felt a strong connection to the divine, an intrigue about the nature of reality and the depths of conscious awareness. Hidden knowledge, spirituality and healing are inspiring big passions for me. This kind of depth conjures a dark, unknown and mysterious energy that is something I’m compelled towards. This is often reflected in some of the makeup looks, art and music that I write.  

“Although I loved makeup art I never really had the confidence to put myself out there until more recently. I was so inspired by the Manchester drag Queens and female drag Queens in particular. For some reason It didn’t occur to me that women could be drag Queens.  After that ‘a – ha’ moment I was flooded with inspiration and a strong sense that women (and some men also) ARE all Queens by birth and nature. Makeup and costume help to emphasise those feelings that we hold within us make us feel gorgeous and fabulous.  

“Our society is so suppressive that our nature and connection with our inner goddess is obscured. Dressing up and expressing ourselves in this way allows a true connection to our divine selves I recommend it to every man and woman out there.

When you express your inner Queen you are empowered, confident, beautiful admired and loved - which is truly who you are!”

How do you achieve your makeup looks?

“I taught myself how to achieve certain makeup looks by watching YouTube videos and I highly recommend it for anyone who wants to express themselves through makeup art. Some amazing creative makeup artists I follow are Drac Makens, Heather Moorhouse and Jordi.

Rose Niland’s 6 Key Makeup Pointers

1. Brushes.

It’s worth investing in some good makeup brushes. Real Techniques brushes are good quality, affordable and cruelty free you can pick them up in Boots and Superdrug. Mac make excellent brushes also. 

2. Good eyebrows create balance and symmetry on the face.

If you hold your pencil vertically from the edge of your nostril to the brow bone, that is the point where your brow should start - then gently fill in the shape starting lightly then darker towards the tail end. The ombre effect gives a lovely added dimension.  

3. Choosing the right shade of foundation for your skin.

When choosing a foundation, aim to get the same shade as your neck. If you can’t test there, go for the wrist. When you’re in a shop, always go into the natural light to check before you commit!

4. Liquid eyeliner.

 If you’re not confident with applying eyeliner in one stroke you can achieve the same effect by applying it a bit at a time. When creating a wing, follow the natural angle and direction of your bottom lash line. To achieve the same on the other eye, look straight into the mirror. 

5. Add some glitter, use a mixture of aloe vera gel and eye lash glue, for a gentle yet strong adhesive. 

If you want to use glitter in a makeup look, leave the skin until last: that way you can wipe away any fall-out for a perfect finish. Muobo in Affleck’s Palace is a treasure trove for glitter - all cruelty-free and biodegradable.

6. Get creative and have some fun

Look at pictures, watch tutorials, sketch out some looks that you’re intrigued by. Coordinate eye shadows with the colours in your clothing, bag or shoes. 

To contact Rose for makeup appointments she is available by email at: roseaniland@gmail.com.

By Emily Oldfield